We got lost and got lucky. In the port area, we pulled into a fried food mecca, but stuffed into a corner was a little diamond in the rough called the Fisherman's House.
We sat down at traditional Korean tables, which means no shoes and sitting on your knees, which is not the most comfortable for me, but once they pulled a swimming fish from the water and sliced it up, I felt nothing but the beautiful texture of the fish on my palate. (all ordering was done in Korean, and according to my host, they just asked how many people they were serving and if I could handle sitting and spicy food...)
The sea cucumber was a little cumbersome. You can't really chew it, you dredge it through spicy red pepper sauce and swallow. It's supposedly a popular Korean drinking food.
Obviously, this isn't a white table cloth place - all of the food was served on Styrofoam, but that did not affect the quality and flavor of the dishes.
We were graced with the most presentable, tender, cleanest tasting part of the fish first, so what did they do with the rest of it? How better to handle the bitterness of the innards and to pull the mystery meats from the smallest of the bones? Put it in a spicy soup of course. Damn, it was good.

